No products added!
Most people wash their face every day and assume that’s enough. While cleansing removes surface dirt, oil, and makeup, it doesn’t get rid of the layer of dead skin cells that naturally builds up over time. As those cells accumulate, they can leave your complexion looking dull, feeling rough, and more likely to develop clogged pores.
That’s where exfoliation comes in. By removing this buildup, exfoliators help reveal smoother, brighter-looking skin underneath while improving the effectiveness of the rest of your skincare routine. Exfoliation is also one of the most common topics patients ask about during consultations at Dr. Longwill Skincare.
Dr. Deborah Longwill, DO, FAOCD, has been treating patients in South Florida since 1992, and she recommends regular exfoliation for a wide range of skin concerns. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to improve your routine, her expert tips can help you exfoliate safely and effectively.
What Exfoliators Do: How to Exfoliate and Resurface Skin
Exfoliation simply helps your skin shed dead cells that wouldn’t come off on their own. The National Cancer Institute’s SEER Training Modules, skin cell turnover takes about 28 to 30 days in young adults but slows to 45 to 50 days as skin ages. That slower turnover leaves dead cells on the surface longer, which is why rough texture, dullness, and uneven tone become more common with age.
A good exfoliator speeds up that natural process — clearing away dead skin, reducing buildup, and revealing brighter, smoother skin underneath with regular use.
Chemical Exfoliants Explained: AHA, BHA, and PHA
A chemical exfoliant doesn’t physically remove dead skin — instead, it weakens the bonds between cells so the dead skin comes off more easily. There are three main types: AHA, BHA, and PHA, and each type of exfoliant is best for a different skin type and skin concern.
Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid: AHA Exfoliants That Brighten Skin
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are both AHAs and are typically the first choice of exfoliants. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of the group, so it penetrates deeply and works well for anyone focused on fine lines and brightening an uneven complexion. Lactic acid is a gentler option that also hydrates, making it a solid choice for normal or slightly dry skin when you still want visible results.
Salicylic Acid and BHA Exfoliants for Acne-Prone Skin
The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which is oil-soluble and is able to penetrate deep into the pore. This makes a salicylic acid exfoliant particularly effective for oily or acne-prone skin, since it removes the sebum and debris that can cause acne. For acne-prone skin, an exfoliant with a low concentration of salicylic acid can make a noticeable difference without being too abrasive.
Mandelic Acid and Gentle PHA Options for Sensitive Skin
PHA exfoliants are the least harsh. As the molecules are larger, PHA does not penetrate the skin as deeply as other acids, so it’s a great choice for sensitive skin, or for those new to chemical exfoliants. Another mild acid worth knowing is mandelic acid, which is often well-tolerated at low concentrations across all skin types and ages.
Face Scrub vs. Face Exfoliator: Physical and Chemical Options
A face scrub is a physical exfoliant that uses fine granules to buff away dead skin cells. While a scrub delivers the instant gratification of smoother-feeling skin, rough or uneven particles can cause small tears — particularly on sensitive or acne-prone skin, which is often already inflamed.
A chemical exfoliant is usually gentler on the skin’s surface, since it dissolves dead skin rather than scraping it off — which makes it a better long-term option for acne-prone skin or visible fine lines. Both options can be effective, but your ultimate choice will depend on your skin type, your skin concern, and your skin’s past reaction to products.
Best Exfoliating Treatments: Best Overall, Best Gentle, and Best Drugstore Picks
While no one exfoliator is best for all skin types, there are a few categories that always seem to be top choices.
Best overall exfoliating treatment: A glycolic acid product applied a couple of times per week is likely to provide the most noticeable, well-rounded results, smoothing fine lines while brightening at the same time.
Best gentle exfoliant: For sensitive skin, look for a PHA or low-percentage lactic acid formula — these tend to exfoliate without triggering stinging or redness.
Best exfoliating treatment for acne-prone skin: A liquid exfoliating product with salicylic acid is one of the most effective exfoliants for treating acne because it works on the inside of the pores, not just the surface.
Best drugstore exfoliator: There’s no need to have a prescription-strength product to get results. A well-formulated drugstore toner or exfoliant with a moderate amount of AHA or BHA can deliver real results with regular use — all without costing a fortune.
Toner, Retinoid, and Exfoliant: Building a Routine That Works
For sensitive skin, opt for a milder formula, such as a low-concentration lactic acid or PHA exfoliant, and apply it once or twice a week. Look out for redness, tightness, or irritation, and stop if you notice any of those.
For acne-prone skin, a salicylic acid-based exfoliant used a couple of times a week can help to keep pores clearer between treatments. Be careful about layering too many actives at once, since combining a strong AHA or BHA exfoliant with a retinoid can sometimes cause more irritation than either would on its own. A hydrating toner can help balance the routine and prevent skin from feeling stripped.
If your skin is healthy and normal with no significant sensitivities, exfoliating once or twice a week is a good starting point. Some people’s skin adapts and can tolerate more frequent exfoliation, while others may need to scale back.
Getting Real Guidance for Your Skin
Exfoliators can be a real game-changer in the way skin feels and looks, but only if the formula, strength, and frequency are right for your skin type and skin concern. Randomly trying exfoliating product after product, hoping one will work, may cause irritation — particularly on sensitive or acne-prone skin — or simply waste time and money on something that was never right for your skin.
If you’re not sure where to start, or you’ve tried exfoliators before with little success, a dermatologist can help. Dr. Longwill Skincare can guide you through your choices and create a skincare regimen that works for your skin instead of just one that’s off the shelf.
